By Alden & Jennifer Little
Congratulations
to all of you who brought home puppies over the holidays. We hope our
last article on choosing puppies proved helpful in your decision. By now
you have probably lost about a dozen socks, two area rugs, one tablecloth
and your left Birkenstock sandal to the cause. (At least that's the last
count at our house.)
It didn't take long for the cute, chubby and often napping puppy that
we all started out with to double or even triple in size. Forget about
sweet little naps. The puppy is now basically a fireball of energy. Our
purpose here is to help you channel some of that energy into productive
learning. We have always stressed the importance of proper socialization
and its positive effect on the outcome of a dog. But in addition to the
basics of love and attention, adequate housing and proper health care,
there are several things we suggest to actually begin training your puppy.
Like most people, you probably put a lot of thought into the registered
name and call name of your new pup. It is very important that the dog
become very familiar with the name, if not already. Make sure to call
his name frequently during playtime and when greeting him. It won't be
long before he recognizes the word as an address to himself and will respond
with enthusiasm. Here's a hint: Try not to choose a name that too closely
resembles the sound of a command that you will possibly use in the future.
For example, "Lil" sounds a lot like "Heel." "Mack" sounds a lot like
"Back." And "Kit," sounds a lot like "Sit." Although it might not seem
vital now, it could cause confusion for the dog during more formal training
whether for obedience or for the field.
COLLAR BREAKING The first time you place a collar on a puppy, they will
probably resist and try desperately to pull it off. Not to worry. As long
as you have purchased a comfortable fabric collect that is well fitted,
the pup will grow accustomed to it very quickly. Make sure to buy one
with graduated neck sizes for growth, but not so big that you have a loose
end dangling around his neck.
LEASH BREAKING After he is content with the collar, it is time to introduce
a leash. Relatively speaking, we do not intend for you to use a heavy
leash like you would for a grown dog. A simple cord or thin rope will
do just fine. Use something inexpensive and keep plenty of it around.
All you need to do is attached the 10- to 15-ft. "leash" to the collar
and let him drag it around for a while. Be sure to keep a close eye on
him because he will undoubtedly tangle through your dining room chairs
and floor lamps. Never let him get caught in a dangerous or frightening
situation while on a leash. And never use it to "tie up" the dog. Everything
in teaching should be kept positive. Keep in mind that you are only introducing
the leash as a tool. It is an extension of you. Once the puppy is comfortable
with it, you will start using the leash to control his movements even
encouraging him to walk with you and establish boundaries.
HERE With the pup on leash, allow him to travel a few feet from you while
you hold the other end of the leash. Calling out his name and introducing
the command "Here," gently tug him back to you. Once he returns, however
reluctantly, give lots of praise for a job well done. Repeat the sequence
a few times always ending on a positive note. Soon he will be returning
to you on command without being pulled back. Remember, the distance should
not be very far. The same 10- to 15-ft. leash is sufficient.
SIT At this point the puppy should be comfortable and confident with you,
the collar, the leash and reasonably sure of "Here." You can now try to
teach the idea of "Sit." Placing your hand on the pup's hind area, gently
push his rear to the floor repeating "Sit." Do so in a pleasant voice.
Naturally there will be some resistance on his part at first, but that's
OK. Eventually he will anticipate the placement of your hand with the
command and comply. Don't expect "Sit" to last very long for such a young
dog. Their attention span won't let them. So to avoid letting puppy set
the rules of duration, always release him from the command after a few
seconds and give him lots of praise. Let him know you are pleased.
RETRIEVE or FETCH To teach fetch as a command you will need to combine
everything we've covered so far. Begin by repeating the word "Fetch,"
in a pleasant voice anything he has or is about to pick up a DESIRABLE
object to carry in his mouth. Desirable is the key word here. Do not encourage
fetch with shoes, sofa pillows, etc. Because the puppy's teeth are fragile
and gums are tender, only use soft pliable pet toys or preferably a canvas
puppy bumper (dummy). While at play, get the pup's attention with the
bumper by waving it excitedly in front of him. Making noise like "Hey,
Hey, Hey," will also heighten his desire to take it from you.
With his full attention, toss the bumper a few feet from you. As soon
as he gets it, say, "Fetch" while using the attached leash and "Here"
command to bring him back. It will take a few lessons for him to realize
what you are asking of him. If done correctly enough times, he will be
more than happy to oblige you and bring the bumper directly back. After
all, this ensures him at least one more happy retrieve. In closing, we
cannot stress enough the importance of keeping your training fun, exciting
and positive. If a puppy becomes bored or frightened during a lesson,
all positive learning will stop. When you continue to force an issue,
you will most likely un-train and create opportunities for bad habits
to begin. It is equally important to allow sufficient learning time for
each command. A week for each is a good rule of thumb, but naturally will
depend on your dog's individual ability.
Whether your intention is to use your dog for hunting and fieldwork or
as an obedient friend, these early steps will help form a proper foundation
for a sound and well-adjusted dog. From a trainer's point of view, receiving
a six-month-old for training that already possesses some or all of these
skills are a blessing. Not only does it mean that we can begin formal
training at a higher level, it also means that you save some training
costs and possibly shorten the time needed to complete training. As always,
your questions and comments are welcome.
Contact us at (334) 366-4732. Our web address is www.tru-line-retrievers.com
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